I have been fascinated by Nyonya cuisine, more so after a trip to Singapore earlier this year where I had the opportunity to visit a Peranakan museum, walk through an iconic neighbourhood and sample their fine food. This dish epitomises the richness and vibrancy of a fusion Malay, Chinese and European culture, very much alive in parts of south east Asia. Ayam Masak Merah or chicken in red spicy sauce has in it the signature Nyonya spice paste, fresh aromatic herbs as well as a splash of tomato ketchup, with raw vegetables and whole green chillies tossed in as a finishing touch. Use chicken drumsticks or bones in, skin on thighs for best flavour and presentation. Serve with steamed rice.
Serves 4
INGREDIENTS
- 1kg / 2lb 4oz chicken drumsticks
- 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
- 2 teaspoon sea salt
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
- 1 lemongrass, cut into 2-3 sections, bruised with back of knife to release flavour
- 4 makrut lime leaves
- 2 tablespoons tomato ketchup
- 2 cups water
- ¼ cup coconut milk
- 2 teaspoons tamarind paste
- 1 tomato, sliced into wedges
- ½ red onion, sliced into rings
- 3 fresh whole green chillies
For the spice paste:
- 1 large onion, roughly chopped
- 3 thick slices of ginger, peeled & roughly chopped
- 2 garlic cloves, peeled
- 6 large dried red chillies
METHOD
- In a large bowl or container, rub chicken all over with turmeric and 1 teaspoon salt. Cover and place in the fridge to marinate for 30 minutes.
- Deseed the red chillies by snipping them into quarter segments with scissors over a colander with largish holes and then shake the seeds out. Soak the chillies in 1 cup of hot water for about 15 minutes until softened. Drain and set aside. Reserve soaking liquid.
- Make the spice paste by placing onion, ginger, garlic and chillies with 2 tablespoons of the soaking water in the bowl of a food processor. Blend into a paste.
- Heat oil in a large heavy based saucepan over medium high heat. Brown the chicken, in batches, to give them some colour. (There is no need to cook them fully at this point.) Remove and set aside.
- In the same pan with remaining oil (add more if necessary to make up 2 tablespoonfuls) over medium heat, fry the spice paste for 3 minutes, stirring frequently. Add lemongrass and lime leaves.
- Transfer chicken back to the pan to coat with the paste. Stir in the tomato ketchup and the remaining teaspoon of salt. Add 2 cups water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes or until the chicken is tender.
- Stir in the coconut milk and tamarind. Simmer, uncovered, for 1-2 minutes to heat through.
- Just before serving, toss in the tomato wedges, red onion rings, and whole green chillies.
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